Travels.Lifestyles TIMING is crucial when you are surfing.Catching a wave is all about timing.
Just as you did when you where still learning on the beach in the sand. you'll want to spend some time watching the swells come in, getting a feel for their breaking patterns and gauging their size. *
After some time, you'll be able to predict, roughly, how big an oncoming wave is and where it will begin to break. When you see a wave rolling in, and assuming you're in the proper position to catch it (remember, the person closest to the breaking portion of the wave gets first dibs), you should face the nose of your board toward shore and lie down, ready to paddle.
For more upcoming tips and tricks make sure to follow me @travels.lifestyles and do check out link in my Bio ;-)
Ciao, Kevin Van